Stove Buyers Guide

We know that buying a new stove can be a daunting task, so at ‘Fires Online’ we have put together an easy guide to help you choose your new appliance. We recommend you read the advice and information below before you try to choose your new stove. We have taken the jargon out of buying a fire and give you an unbiased guide to choosing your ideal heating appliance.

Which fuel should I use?

There are a number of different fuels available, therefore a good starting point when choosing your stove is to decided on the fuel you want to use. Below we have listed the fuels with a brief guide to the pros and cons of each one.

Wood  

Wood

Pros : A renewable source of fuel, which should be cheap if you have a readily available supply, such as in rural areas. When burnt, wood offers the best flame effect and the unbeatable smell and sound of a real fire. The ash doesn't need emptying as often as coal and new fires can just be lit on the ashes in the bottom of the stove. Ideally you should build up a stock of wood, allowing time for it to season (dry out) before use. Wood is a carbon neutral source of fuel.

Cons : In this country seasoned wood, which has a lower moisture content is difficult to find and if buying on an irregular basis from shops or garages it can be more expensive. The removable of ash can be a messy job as there is no ashpan to remove in a woodburning stove. Wood can take up a lot of space if stored properly. Inner city areas may not permit the use of a wood burning stove.  
 
Multi-fuel  

Multi-fuel

Pros : Ensure you use a smokeless coal such as anthracite. This will produce more heat than wood and burns a lot slower, ideal for an evenings fire or to slumber the fire throughout the night. Traditional coal merchants still offer a regular delivery service. You have the option of a number of fuels if supply is sort - wood, coal or even peat. The initial cost of the appliance will be cheaper than gas or oil. Able to burn smokeless coal in smoke control zones.

Cons : Coal can be a dirty fuel to handle and to store. The ash needs to be removed ideally after every fire. Prices can very widely if you purchase fuel from a garage, where no local merchant is available. More difficult to light initially. Your chimney will need regular sweeping.  
 
Gas  

Gas

There are two types of gas, Natural Gas or Liquid Propane Gas (LPG):

Pros (Natural Gas) : Mains natural gas is readily available in most towns in the UK. The fuel is cheap and will be added to your normal bill. Natural gas requires no storage and is a very clean fuel to use.. The flame effects are now very realistic. Gas appliances are very easy to light, with self sparking ignitions and a lot of controlability.
Cons (Natural Gas) : No real fire noise or smell. Gas appliances are more expensive to buy initially and should be serviced yearly.

Pros (LPG) : If using your appliance primarily as a focal point (you already have central heating), LPG is very effective. Can be supplied in very remote areas or where access is difficult. The flame effects are now very realistic. Gas appliances are very easy to light, with self sparking ignitions and a lot of controlability.
Cons (LPG) : LPG is the most expensive fuel to use on a cost per minute basis. Bottles or a tank must be stored safely and refilled regulary.  
 
Electric  

Electric

Pros : No chimney or installation required. Can be fitted in any location with access to a standard electrical socket. The appliance can be moved easily within the home or even taken with you if you move. Able to have an effect only without heat for use in warmer months.

Cons : The maximum heat output is low. Although the light only setting cost roughly just 1p an hour to run, the heat settings can be quite expensive. The flame effect tends not to be as realistic as other fuels.  
 
Oil  

Oil

Pros : Ideal for homeowners out in the country with no use of Natural Gas. The pence per minute running cost is probably the lowest of all fuels. Can produce a high output relative to gas.

Cons : Appliances are designed for continuous use, through day and night, thus increasing costs. Need a suitably sited storage tank. For automatic lighting you will require electric to the appliance. Both the appliance and the installation are generally expensive.  
 

What size stove do I need?

There are two very important elements to consider when choosing the size of your stove:
1) Physical Size - Do you have enough room for the stove to function properly and conform to building regulations.
2) Output - Do you have the right amount of heat for your room.

Height
The distance from the top to bottom of the stove. Most stoves are quite short, but care should be taken if you purchase a canopy as these sit on top of the stove adding height. You should ensure the top (and sides) of the stove are a safe distance from any combustible material such as wooden lintels or beams. It is recommended that you allow around 22", however it is wise to check with the manufacturer of the stove you are interested in as the distanced advised may vary. The height listed does not include the flue collar if the top flue outlet is used.  
Width
The distance across the front of the stove as you look at it face on. Ensure the stove will fit in the narrowest width of your fireplace if you are using one. If you are placing your stove into an inglenook, it is recommended that you have at least 150mm (6") space either side of the appliance, although this may be reduced slightly for smaller output stoves. This is not a regulation, but ensures that the heat from the sides of the stove enters the room, protecting against heat build up which may damage the stove. Also there are often workings on the side of the stove which need to be accessed.  
Depth
The distance from the front to the back of the stove. The depth of the stove is important as you need to make sure you will have the regulation 300mm (12") of the hearth in front of the front legs of the stove once installed. You should also allow a 50mm (2") gap at the back of the stove. If you choose to use a rear flue outlet on a stove, connected to either a 90 degree bend, 90 degree tee or manufacturers fitting, this will add extra depth onto the stove, usually around 160mm depending on flue size.  
Output
The heat output of a stove is measured in Kilowatts (kW). The output you require is dependent on the size of the room to be heated. To identify the output you require either use our calculator below or the simple calculation which follows.

Room measurements:

Length:   Width:   Height:   In:    kW's needed.


Simple Calculation: Multiply Room Length x Room Width x Room Height (measured in metres). Divide the figure you have (the space of your room in cubic metres) by 14. Your final figure is the output you will need from a stove to heat your room.

This is not an exact classification, but can be used as a good 'rule of thumb'. The ability of a stove to heat your room will be affected by such aspects as a larger than usual number of doors or windows (including patio) in the room, or other draft sources. In these cases you may need to look at a stove with a greater output.

For those people looking to buy a stove for aesthetic reasons, heat output may be irrelevant, however it is important that you do not buy a stove with an output too large for your room. Doing so may cause you to have to run the stove at a lower output, resulting in poorer efficiency, possible flue problems including consendation and reduced visual appeal due to smaller flames and under performing airwash.  
Weight
The weight of your stove is generally not a concern unless you plan to transport the stove yourself or move it in the future. Our stoves are delivered on their own pallet using a tail-lift vehicle when the weight demands. If you do intend to transport or move your stove after delivery, you will require at least two people. Generally items such as doors, bricks and grates are removable to temporarily lighten the load.  

How should I flue my stove?

Making sure your flue installation is correct is one of the most important factors when looking to buy and install a new stove.

Chimney
Today it is no longer essential to have a chimney if you would like to install a new fire. A chimney is used to guide smoke and fumes safely away from the fire, however it is now possible to install a gas or oil fire with an outside flue or alternatively an electric fire which does not require a flue.

A chimney suitable for all flue fires is usually made from stone or brick and runs up through your house or up along an outside wall. However, if not, a chimney can be built from an insulated stainless steel rigid fuel liner, which again, can be built up through your house or up along an outside wall. Older or damaged stone or brick chimneys, can still be used , but will need lining inside with an insulated flexible stainless steel liner from top to bottom.

If you are unsure we recommend you have your chimney inspected by a chimney sweep, who will assess the condition and recommend the appropriate action. It is also recommended that you have your chimney swept if you intend to use it. To find a chimney sweep in your area, enter your town in the box to the right and click the 'Find' button. If none are found try entering the name of a larger town nearby.
If you don't have a chimney and don't wish to install one, you can install a flue to enable a gas or oil fire to be used in your home. This involves making a small flue hole in an outside wall and installing a powered/balanced flue. These are discreet, quiet and weatherproof, being acoustically dampened to minimise noise from the fan. To install a powered/balanced flue you will need to:

Position your fire backing onto an outside cavity wall.
Ensure to wall is between 300 and 500mm thick.
Ensure there are electricity supplies nearby (for powered flue).  
Flue Diameter
The flue diameters given relate to the internal flue diameter and are calculated by the manufacturer of the stove.

Conventional flued stoves: This is the the minimum size flue that the stove can use - you must not reduce the size of the flue used.

Balanced Flue: Most balanced flue gas stoves will have an internal flue diameter of 125mm (5"), however the external diameter will generally be 50 - 75mm (2 - 3") greater.  
Flue Outlet
Most stoves have an interchangeable flue outlet, in which case you will have one flue collar for the outlet you are going to use and one blanking disc for the unused outlet. These two items can be switched around allowing you to decide on your flue configeration after you have bought your stove or to change the set up in the future. However, there are a small number of models which do not have an interchangeable outlet. When deciding how to flue your stove, please remember:

Top: The flue pipe will travel up to a spigot plate or through a register board. It is advisable to incorporate an adjustable length of flue pipe to enable easy removable of your stove in the future.

Rear: If using the rear flue outlet, the flue pipe must travel no further than 150mm horizontally before turning vertically. In the case of a gas stove a 90 degree bend can be used, whilst in the case of wood or multi-fuel stoves, a cleaning door must be provided - we suggest using a 90 degree tee with cap.

In both cases fire cement should be used to seal the flue pipe to the flue collar on the stove.  

How can I run my hot water or central heating?

Many wood burning and multi-fuel stoves have the option of adding a 'clip in' boiler capable of providing hot water and in some case also running radiators. This can be done at the time of installation or at a later date. A small number of stoves have an integral or factory fitted boiler which can provide enough heat for a full central heating system.

Boiler
Heat your room only - If you are looking for a stove just to heat your room then all of our stoves will be suitable (depending on the size of the room you would like to heat).

Heat your room and Domestic Hot Water (DHW) - To heat DHW you will also require a boiler. This is usually a clip-in boiler (fitted to the stove any time). You will need approximately 10,000 Btu's output to run DHW. Most boilers should reach around this output.

Heat your room, Domestic hot water and Central Heating (DHW+CH) - To use a stove to power you central heating in addition to heating your room and domestic hot water, you will again need a stove with a boiler, however you will need a lot greater output than that to just heat your room. The size of the boiler you need will depend on the number of radiators you need to heat. You will again need 10,000 Btu's to run DHW. You should then allow 3,400 Btu's to heat each average sized single radiator. If the radiator is a double, then double the output needed. If there are long runs of pipework then allow extra Btu's per radiator (maybe 4,000 Btu's). Total the outputs to find out what size boiler you require. However, you must remember that the stove will have to be fired up all year round to provide heat for the DHW+CH or for just DHW. Therefore the room containing the stove will always be warm.  
Radiators
Radiator output is calculated based on a standard 600mm x 600mm single convector radiator. Double radiators should be counted as two radiators.

Any boiler output below 9000 BTU's will be described as Domestic Hot Water only (DHW). Hot water demands can very greatly from one property/family to another.

If your property has long pipe runs you should allow for extra heat loss.

Actual boiler outputs do vary. The figure given is a maximum output based on continuous use with a suitable fuel.

The number of radiators figure should be used as a guide and does not replace the need for a qualified heating engineer to calculate the BTU output required for your property.  
Air Vents
Woodburning and Multi-fuel stoves:
The English and Scottish Building Regulations specify that the following fixed ventilation must be provided when installing woodburning and multi-fuel appliances.

Appliance rated under 5kW: No ventilations required.

Appliances rated over 5kW: For each kW of rated output about 5kW, 550 sq.mm (0.85 sq. ins.) per kW

Example: For a stove rated at 8kW the ventilation required is 3 x 550 sq.mm = 1650 sq.mm (2.56 sq.ins). This can be achieved by using a standard ventilation brick.

Gas fired stoves
All our gas stoves are rated below 7kW input, therefore there is no requirement for any fixed ventilation to be provided.  
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